Cycad Ferox - Encephalartos Ferox

Description

E. ferox is not usually regarded as having much of an exposed trunk, although it is certainly possible to find specimens in the wild with stems of up to 2m above ground level. Branching of the trunk is uncommon and usually occurs only when the growing apex becomes physically damaged. In mature plants the trunk reaches 25cm to 35cm in diameter.

Leaves of this species are 1m to 2m long and usually straight, although sometimes a slight kink in the rachis is seen. The dark green pinnae, somewhat holly-like in appearance, occur as more or less opposite pairs, set along the rachis to make a slight V-angle and diminish in size to a series of prickles toward the leaf base. Median leaflets are typically flat or only slightly ruffled, 15cm long and up to 5cm broad. In some plants the leaflet margins are quite markedly rolled under to give a tubular appearance. An extreme of this leaflet type is seen in some of the specimens at Fairchild Tropical Garden, which are said to be derived from Natal seed. The leaflets have 2 to 4 small teeth on each margin and 3 to 5 spiny lobes at the apex.

E. ferox usually bears 1-3 cones but on older specimens as many as 5 or 10 cones are borne by female or male plants respectively. The cones are usually a brilliant scarlet colour, occasionally tending to pink shades and golden-yellow cones have been seen in plants in the Sileze area and from certain Mozambique localities. Male cones are subcylindric, 40cm to 50cm long and 7cm to 10cm in diameter. Female cones are more ovoid, 25cm to 50cm long and 20cm to 40cm in diameter. Cone scales are somewhat wrinkled and end in a pronounced beak. Each female cone bears about 500 seeds which have a bright red outer skin (sarcotesta) and are typically 4.5cm to 5cm long and 1.5cm to 2cm in diameter.

Distribution & Habitat

The natural habitat of E. ferox comprises a fairly narrow strip of coastal scrub extending from Sodwana Bay on the Zululand coast up to a point about 650 km north of Maputo in Mozambique. It is fairly well established throughout this area and although the species is not officially listed as endangered, rare or threatened, numbers have been reduced due to encroachment of habitation in Mozambique, afforestation activities in Zululand and the activities of unscrupulous collectors. In Maputaland (previously Tongaland) the main four localities are south of Kosi Bay, the shores near Lake Sibaya, the Sileze area and the Tembe elephant park. In the coastal zones it is often found associated with the wild banana, Strelitzia nicolai, while further inland it occurs in wooded scrub. Apart from its occurrence on the African mainland, the species is also found on Innaca Island, about 35 km east of Maputo. The habitat experience typically hot and humid tropical weather with an annual rainfall, mostly falling in summer, of 1000mm to 1250mm. In certain of the grassland areas there are cyclical fires at about a four year frequency to which the species seems well adapted. Its occurrence on stabilised sand dunes is a character, which E. ferox shares with E. arenarius in the Eastern Cape. However, plants of E. ferox do not grow right down to the shore itself, the latter quality amongst cycads apparently being confined to E. hildebrandtii in East Africa. The furthest inland occurrence of E. ferox is that of a solitary specimen found by Natal Parks Board officer, I. Steytler, in 1964 on the Makatini Flats about 40 km inland from Sodwana Bay. This does seem to be somewhat outside the usual narrow coastal range and Cynthia Giddy speculated that its presence might have arisen from transport of a seed by the Trumpeter Hornbill which is common in the area and has been observed swallowing whole cycad seed, later to regurgitate the kernel.

Cultivation & Propagation

E. ferox grows well in frost-free areas and enjoys plenty of heat and water, consistent with its conditions in habitat. One of the fastest growing of all cycads, it can cone within 12 years from the time of seed germination. Plants prefer shady conditions with well-drained soil and respond positively to both inorganic and organic fertiliser applications. Whilst this species will serve well as a container plant, it is used to best advantage as a landscaping feature plant where its luxuriant foliage contributes dramatically to a tropical impression. Groupings of several plants compound this effect and of course increase the possibility of eventual seed production

Notes:

An Italian plant collector, Cavaliere Carlo Antonio Fornasini, is generally credited with the "discovery" of E. ferox. Fornasini botanised in and around the Inhambane area in Mozambique from 1839 onwards and kept up a continuous flow of specimens to his countryman, Professor Giuseppe Bertolini, who worked in the northern Italian city of Bologna. Bertolini, himself the son of a well-known botanist, drew and described many of Fornasini's specimens in a series of dissertations entitled "Illustrazione di Piante Mozambicesi", which was published in a local scientific journal. Memorie della Accademia delle Scienze dell Istituto di Bologna". Amongst the specimens sent by Fornasini were two large cycad leaves from a quite beautiful ("una bella pianta"), but not very common plant which had stems "as thick as a human torso" and bore amongst its leaves "several fruits similar to a pineapple ...... but not very good to eat". Fornasini also remarked that the natives extracted a type of starch from the stems. Thus on 27 March 1851 Bertolini published a two-page report on this cycad which he named Encephalartos ferox.

In July 1920 two young botanists, Robert Aitkin, newly-appointed lecturer at Natal University College, and postgraduate student George Gale, set out on a arduous trip to the Pondoland (now Maputaland) in northern Natal. From their subsequent report ...."the means of transport was the only one possible in a country unoccupied by white settlers, viz. a wagon and a span of sixteen donkeys. Progress by this means is extremely slow .... it will scarcely be surprising that a day's journey rarely exceeds twelve miles." But their efforts were well rewarded when they came across a stand of cycads where (in what seems to be a somewhat exaggerated report)....."The tallest plant seen was 11 ft. in height and about 3ft. 6ins. in girth. Plants of 6 to 9 ft. are common". Specimens were collected and are still preserved in the National Herbarium at Pretoria. During the same expedition Aitken and Gale also came across the stand of Raphia palms later named Raphia australis at Kosi Bay. The following year a Colonel Lugge made a similar trip and his cycad specimen is still on file in the Natal Herbarium. During the next ten years or so, a number of people visited the area in which these plants had been found and brought back plants, many of which were planted in Durban homes.

A Roman Catholic Missionary, Father Jacob Gerstner, collected plants in the 20's. A Mr. R.H. Rutherfoord of Obotini gathered specimens in 1927. All these people obtained their specimens independently and there was subsequently a rather curious set of correspondence in the Natal Mercury, in which each of them claims to have discovered the Kosi Bay cycad. Another story tells of a Zulu woman wearing a necklace of the red seeds and being seen in Durban's West Street by a passing botanist who, on questioning the lady, was told that the seed had come from a plant near Tongaat. In 1930 Sir Arthur Hill and Dr. J. Hutchinson, distinguished botanists from Kew Gardens, visited Durban and saw well established plants of this cycad in several local gardens. On returning to Kew, Hutchinson wrote up a description of the species in the 1932 issue of Kew Bulletin and thus twelve years after its first discovery in Natal, Encephalartos kosiensis was officially named. When Hutchinson named E. kosiensis 1932 he was careful to note that this species was undoubtedly allied to E. ferox. Only about ten years later was the question raised of just how similar or how different these two taxa were and it was Miss I.C. Verdoorn who suggested that they might in fact be one and the same species. The key to the whole episode was Bertolini's original water-colour painting which his grandson found and sent to Kew. A copy of this painting found its way to H. Basil Christian, keen cycadologist and founder of the Ewanrigg Gardens near Harare. Christian immediately wrote to Kew and in a letter dated 5 December 1946, says ..."in my opinion this photograph definitely settles the question. ... Had Hutchinson seen this, it is possible that he may not have described the Kosi Bay plant as a new species." Since about 1950 the two taxa have been regarded as synonymous and E. ferox as the earlier of the two names, has precedence.

E. ferox is fairly well represented in public and private gardens the world over. According to CITES reports, local nurserymen have shipped plantlets to Australia, New Zealand, Brazil, U.S.A., Canada, England, France, Holland, Italy, Germany, Denmark, Switzerland, Japan and the Philippines. Mature plants are established in many European botanic gardens, including those in Warsaw, Amsterdam, Hamburg and Munich. Most major American botanic gardens have specimens with perhaps the finest plants being found at the Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Florida.

http://www.wild-about-you.com/AfricaCycads.htm

Lawn Care - Common Lawn Problems (and Simple Solutions) Faced by Home Owners - Part 1

There are many frustrated home owners who just cannot get it right with their lawn. This frustration stems from some of the following lawn situations:

• dying or dead lawn areas under or adjacent to pine trees, conifers and river she oaks
• dying or dead lawn areas under melaleuca trees and shrubs, jacaranda trees and so on
• weakened lawn areas as a result of raking leaves instead of mowing the affected areas with a Lawnmower (with Catcher!) - this is very important
• shade from trees and shade from fallen leaves

Today we will address the issue of under performing lawn areas under or adjacent to pine trees, conifer trees and river she oaks. Some lawns we come across are surrounded by rows of pine trees, conifer trees and / or river she oaks. The leaves (or more precisely, the needles) of these trees are full of acid. Over time as the pine tree needles fall to the ground and accumulate, the soil pH changes to a more acidic pH. The soil around these trees, being acidic, make it difficult for the Lawn and Turf grass to perform well.

Some homeowners become frustrated with the poorly performing lawn, and to make matters worse they use a Rake to collect and pick up all the pine tree needles. So the lawn has become weaker with the accumulation of pine tree needles, and then the lawn is torn apart by the raking.

The solution here is to remove the pine tree needles with regular mowing using a catcher to collect all the grass clippings and the pine tree needles. The frequency of mowing with a catcher (for the section of lawn affected by the acidic pine tree needles) is determined by your desire to improve the quality of the lawn. Generally, we recommend our customers to mow these areas weekly (all year round - or for as long as the pine trees are dropping there leaves) for optimum results.

Gerry Faehrmann is the managing director of Lawn Green Pty Ltd based in Sydney, Australia.

Lawn Green specialises in "turning Your tired old grass into Lush Green Lawn" - using its Waterless Weed and Feed Lawn Care program.

For more information on the Common Lawn and Turf Problems facing Home Owners please visit the website at http://www.LawnGreen.com.au/common_lawn_problems_faced_by_homeowners

Other information regarding Frequently Asked Questions can be found at http://www.LawnGreen.com.au/lawn_green_s_faq_frequently_asked_questions

While you are at our website please register online for our Free Report on "The 5 Secrets To A Great Looking Lawn."

Human Waste As an Alternative Energy Source

With all of the news buzz these days around renewable energies such as solar and wind power, even harnessing the energy of ocean waves, one often neglected energy source is right under our noses, so to speak: human waste. It may not be as appealing or pleasant as the alternatives, but energy generation from human waste could be the most important of all. World population increases every day along with demand for energy and resources, and resources become scarcer and more coveted. The only potential resource that will increase proportionate to population is our own waste. Feces and urine are abundant and readily available wherever there are humans. Currently vast quantities of energy made from fossil fuel combustion and (often potable) water are used to process said waste products. New projects in composting toilets, biogas harvesting, biofuels creation and even microbial fuel cells could allow us to reverse the cycle and take advantage of this untapped resource.

Though skeptics believe that composting toilets will never be successful in the Western world, new technologies as well as old are being used to solve two problems: how to treat our waste, and how to produce enough food without poisoning ourselves and our environment with expensive chemical fertilizers. The next generation of composting toilets, such as that made by Clivus Multrum, are solving these problems and making the system more appealing to consumers. The low-flow composting toilets that they produce contain a basement level compost bin and service is included with the product. A much more low-tech version of the composting toilet is being used by the NGO Estamos in Africa. Although the organization's aims are to improve sanitation and reduce illness, their programs are also helping small-scale farmers make a living. The organization provides composting toilets at no charge, and has greatly improved the quality of life for many poor families. The organization's director, Feliciano dos Santos, just won the 2008 Goldman Environmental Prize in Ecological Sanitation for this work.

Many countries have well-established methane-capture programs that use animal waste, such as pig farms in Australia and cattle ranches in the United States. But what of the gas creation potential of human waste? Developing countries are pioneering this technology as a way to save money and create renewable energy. With the help of the Heifer International Foundation, rural farmers in Uganda's Mukono district are mixing human feces and urine with other biological waste such as water hyacinth and banana peels to create biogas, and using the byproduct to fertilize their fields. The biogas produced contains 60-90% methane, and is being used for lighting, cooking and some engines, and many residents are improving their quality of life and rising above the poverty level. Likewise, Cyangugu prison in Rwanda is creating biogas from the excrement of its prisoners. The Kigali Institute of Science and Technology built the digester for the prison, which is using the resulting product to cook 50% of the prisoner's meals, and saving $22,000 annually -- a great deal of money in Rwanda. But developing countries aren't the only ones taking advantage of human generated biogas. The Lions Gate Wastewater Treatment Plant in Vancouver, British Columbia, once the subject of a lawsuit regarding a violation of federal pollution laws, has piloted a $1.1 million project to harvest methane from the city's sewage and feed it directly into the natural gas distribution system. The project, which is expected to be operational in 2009, projects a reduction of greenhouse gas emissions by 500 tonnes annually, and enough energy production to power 100 homes. A similar project is underway in San Antonio, Texas.

Current debates surrounding plant-based biofuels focus on competition between food crops and biofuels crops, and many experts worry that high demand for biofuels will exacerbate current food shortage problems. Several projects have tackled this issue by creating biofuels from algae grown on human waste. One of these is Aquaflow Bionomic Corporation, which harvests the algae used in the sewage treatment ponds in Malborough, New Zealand. The "green crude" they create from the algae can be used for all crude-oil applications such as gasoline, diesel and plastics. In a more direct process, a Canadian company called Dynamotive Energy Systems Corporation is feeding human waste directly into a biofuels generation system using a "fast pyrolysis process". The system achieves 80% efficiency by recuperating waste gasses and heat from the process, and the end product, BioOil, can be used as a substitute for a variety of petroleum products. One of the most high-tech, cutting-edge technologies for energy creation from human waste is the development of microbial fuel cells. Developed by Dr. Bruce Logan of Penn State's engineering department, the system has been suggested as a way to take waste treatment plants off the grid. The fuel cell, still being refined to produce an acceptable energy output, uses wastewater to generate hydrogen fuel, and clean water is produced as a by-product. While the technology is not practical for other fuel-cell applications such as hydrogen-powered cars, it can be used anywhere there is a large supply of biological waste.

Many people cringe at the thought of human waste based energy systems, and would rather not think about what happens down the pipeline, but as humanity becomes increasingly demanding of energy we must begin to embrace unconventional methods of producing it. With the increasing success of the projects mentioned exists the possibility of eliminating human waste pollution worldwide. One day our sewage may be referred to as "brown gold", and could be more valuable than even crude oil.

For more information on alternative energies, including renewable energy solutions for your home and business, please visit the Alternative Energy Weblog (http://www.alternativeenergyweblog.com).

Common Houseplant Problems

House plants have problems just as your outdoor plants do. They can range from diseases and insects to over and under watering or over and under fertilizing. Knowing what cause the problem is the first step in curing it. With house plants if the base of the plant stem is soft and seems weak, then more than likely the cause is from over watering, simply allow your plant to dry completely out before watering again or re-potting with a good draining soil with a little sand mixed in will also improve your plants.

Leaf Drop "drooping leaves" are another common house plant problem commonly caused by an over exposure to cold or drafts, over fertilizing or to much sun. You should stop fertilizing for three to four weeks and move the plant to a window with a little less sun and check the rooms' temperature and for drafts also the cold from the window at night.

Yellow or Brown Spots means too much water or sun and the soil should be checked for moisture, if it's too wet let it dry out some before the next watering and then move to an area a little less sunny. If the leaves are turning brown then yellowing this may be from several causes, the most common is not enough or too much water or even over fertilization. A re-potting with fresh soil, and holding off on fertilizing for a month or so will generally do the trick, water only when the plant has become completely dry and avoiding too much sun,

Dry brittle leaves means that your home does not have enough humidity and your plants are not getting enough water. A good misting of the leaves and a good soaking of the plant itself is a quick fix for this. Soak the plant by watering it until the water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, misting can be done with a sprayer or simply wiping the leaves down with a cloth or sponge, this is also a good way to get some of the dust off the leaves, bringing their shine back.

Most house-plants are slow to grow, generally from too little light, water or fertilization. House plants however don't need a lot of fertilizer, when you do fertilize with a slow release fertilizer and extra light can be given by moving the plant to a sunnier location or adding a grow light above it for the extra light it needs.

Eudora DeWynter offers tips on Common Houseplant Problems on her blog at http://www.gardentoolguru.com.

Variations Among Species of Palm Trees

Palm trees are popular in gardens all over the world and are usually found in the tropics, coastal regions, deserts and generally warmer areas. Some species grow faster than other species, particularly due to the climate which affects the growth in most types of palm trees. Some palm trees need continually warmer weather while some can bear the colder climates. In some trees, the warmer weather results in faster growth and, in those trees, the trunk becomes taller more quickly. This is important to consider when choosing the appropriate plants for your garden, particularly if you want a tall line of trees in a shorter period of time.

There are several types of palm trees varying by commonality to growth rate. Queen Palms are the most common species of palm trees and, actually, do fairly well in the colder climates. Queen Palms need a lot of water and quality soil. They reach around twenty-five feet in a time span of seven to ten years, but they can reach a height of sixty feet. The King Palm is a faster growing tree and grows faster with full sun. It requires a rich and nutrient soil and plenty of water, but with good care these trees can reach twenty-five feet in ten years and have a maximum height potential of approximately forty feet. The King Palm is a good species choice if you desire a shade or canopy of trees.

Another choice in faster growing trees is the Majesty Palm, which reaches around ten feet in ten years and can reach thirty-five feet within a twenty year period of time. This palm needs soil rich in magnesium and, as expected, plenty of water though they do not do well near the ocean due to the abundance of salt in the air. The King Kong or Black Trunk Palms are also faster growing trees with the potential to reach eight feet tall. Unlike some other species, though, this tree grows in width before it grows in height and also grows large, horizontal leaves. It is one of the wider types as far as trunk diameter. Finally, the Royal Palms are moderately fast in growth, possibly reach twenty feet in ten years with quality care. This tree requires a nutrient rich soil, a lot of sun and plenty of water. Similar to the King Kong or Black Trunk species, the Royal Palms grow a wider trunk before growing tall. It does not grow well in colder weathers, specifically before twenty six degrees Fahrenheit.

As you see, the needs of palm trees vary by species. You must consider the needs of the different types before you plant it to be sure you can meet its requirements and allow it to grow to its full potential. Some do well in continually warmer weathers, while some can handle the occasional colder weather. Also, be sure to ask the nursery about the day length of each type of plant. Some trees need a lot of continual sun while others do better in partial sun. It is important to understand the heat and sun requirements for the tree you choose.

Being particularly interested in plants, Peter J. Wilson has been editing a large number of detailed papers on this particular subject. You might find out more about his abstracts on plants and palm trees at http://www.alicante-spain.com

How to Start a Worm Farm

Getting started on a worm farm is not that complicated, all you'll need is a love for recycling and a little bit of worm trivia so here's some worm trivia that could help motivate and inspire you with your new venture. How much do worms usually eat? Mature worms capable of eating up to three times their own body weight every day and for those who are just starting in the world of worms and what to know how to make the worms eat more and have a lot more productivity.

The answer is simple - shred, mash or blend food scraps since these will make the food more digestible and is very easily eaten by the worms. Also maintain worm bed temperature at around 23-25 degrees Celsius, since it is at these temperatures that worms feel their best, but don't feed your worms foods high in acid content as it will screw up their digestive system. The following are a few things you'll want avoid feeding your worms, manure, onions, citrus fruits or peelings, garlic, garden waste sprayed with insecticides, dairy products like milk and cheese or meat.

Watering the farm will enhance the production of the fertilizer but take care not to add too much water in the farm or the worms will die. Take note that food wastes are actually eighty percent water content which is released as the worms begin to break it down. So, if you happen to pour water over the system every couple to few weeks be sure to just add sufficient water to make sure that the bed remains damp and cool, and you will have a constant supply of this fertilizer.

You will not be able to harvest the worms since they'll regulate themselves within any space and the amount of food made available to them. Here are a few other questions that you might find yourself inquiring.

Why is it common for worms to gather on the lid of the farm when it is raining? It's a perfectly normal response for these worms to act in this manner during the rainy season to avoid getting drowned.to avoid drowning. Just take the farm containers to an area where it won't be exposed to too much rain and drop the worms to the farm bedding.

Why don't the worms just relocate to the upper level of the tray? If could be the result of you putting in new food before the worms have completed the earlier batch. Worms have an instinct to stay with leftover food and won't seek out to find a new food source until it consumes what was left previously. Therefore, before adding new trays, halt the feeding of the worms for at least five days so you can be sure the old food has been eaten and make sure that the levels in the tray needs to be placed high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.

Do worms have the ability endure high temperatures? worms are able to stand a temperature ranging between ten to thirty degrees Celsius. so if it gets hotter than they can stand, place the farm in a nice shady cool place where it can regulate the moisture and humidity of the boxes. In colder temps make sure to cover the box with old clothes, blankets and wool shavings to sustain the warm temperature. It's also good to feed the worms at least a quarter more than you're supposed to since more food by the worms gives way for more heat to be generated within their bodies. So use these ideas and you can be on your way to create a great worm farm.

P Abbey owns and operates http://www.wormcompostingdiy.com - Worm Composting Troubleshooting

Planting Avocado Seed - How to Grow the Perfect Avocado

Once you know how easy it is to go about planting avocado seed, you'll start growing your own indoor avocado plant that will bring you years of enjoyment, and some nice fruit, too! Just follow these simple steps, and soon, you'll see your avocado seed begin to sprout and turn into a beautiful plant.

Preparing the Seed

First, cut open the avocado and remove the seed, being careful not to damage or cut the seed (it's usually called a pit, because it's pretty big). Rinse the pit under cold water to remove any fruit or residue that might be left on it, and then dry with a soft cloth or paper towel. You're just about ready to start planting avocado seed, now!

About midway through the roundest part of the pit (from top to bottom, with the pointy end on top), push three toothpicks around the middle of the avocado pit. Push them in enough so they are secure, and will hold the pit in place.

Fill a glass or jar with water, and suspend the pit on the edge of the jar, leaving about half the pit submerged in the water. The large end of the pit should be the end in the water.

What to do Next

Next in planting avocado seed is letting the pit do its thing! Place the jar in a sunny location where it won't spill or get knocked over, and just make sure to keep the water level filled up so the pit is always in water.

In about three weeks, you should see roots forming in the water, and the top of the pit beginning to split, where a green sprout will emerge. After the sprout gets about six-inches tall or so, and there are more than one set of leaves, pinch off the very top set of leaves. This will help the avocado branch out and become more like a tree. After another few weeks, you should have more roots and more leaves on the new tree.

Planting Time

You can plant your avocado outside if you live in a warm area where it won't freeze in the winter. However, if you live in a colder area, your avocado won't survive the winter, so you need to transplant it into a pot as a houseplant. When you plant it in a pot, use a good quality potting soil, and don't bury the top of the pit, leave about half of it sticking out of the ground, just make sure the roots are totally covered up. Water frequently, but don't keep the soil too moist, because your pit can rot if the soil is too wet.

Place the pot in a sunny location, it really needs sun to grow. Keep the soil moist but not too wet. Look for yellow leaves, if your avocado leaves turn yellow, it's getting too much water, if they wilt or turn brown, it's not getting enough. Every time the plant grows another half a foot or so, pinch out the very top leaves to keep it branching out and healthy.

In the wild, your tree could grow 20 to 40 feet tall, but in the house, if you prune it, you can keep it much smaller and more manageable. Sometimes, even planting avocado seed can result in trees that bear fruit indoors, but planting two or more trees increases your chances, since they can pollinate each other.

Ian Pennington is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about planting avocado seeds, please visit Best Gardening Ideas for current articles and discussions.

How to Grow Sweet Corn

Purchased corn, whether on the cob or in a can cant compare for taste! Sweet corn is easy to grow in the flower and fruit gardening guides home garden with just a little know how and a few corn facts.

Corn needs warm soil temperatures (50 - 65 Fahrenheit) to germinate.
Warm temperatures cause sugars in corn to turn into starches and results in loss of sweetness and creamy texture. Sugars also begin converting to starches immediately after harvest.

Sweet corn is divided into three types according to its sweetness: (SU) normal sugary or standard sweet corn, (SE) sugary enhanced, and (Sh2) super sweet.

Standard Sweet Corn (SU)

Normal sugary is the traditional variety of sweet corn. Less sweet than the other types, it will tolerate low temperatures at planting time.

Sugary Enhanced (SE)

(SE) corn is the preferred choice of many of todays flower and fruit gardening guides home gardeners. Sugary enhanced is sweeter than standard corn and retains sweetness longer than either of the other types. While not as sweet as super sweet, it has a creamier texture and tolerates lower soil temperatures.

Super Sweet

Super sweet (Sh2) kernels differ from the other two types of sweet corn by their shriveled, small appearance. Although the sweetest of the three, (Sh2) needs a soil temperature of at least 65 F to germinate. Another drawback of (Sh2) is that its texture is drier and its sugars more rapidly convert to starch after harvest.

Sow your seed in a very rich garden soil and give it access to ample moisture. Because corn is a high-nitrogen feeder, even the best soils may need to the addition of aged manure or nutrient rich compost to produce an optimum crop.

Plant corn in two or more rows for pollination to be successful. Plant kernels in hills of three, spaced about a foot a part with rows three feet apart. Plant kernels from one to 1 inches deep or inch deep for super sweet types. After germination, preserve the most robust plant in each hill, discarding any other seedlings that have sprouted.

Water rows well after planting, especially in the case of super sweet kernels, which need to absorb more water to germinate. Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season. Corn needs moisture in order to form tassels and silk and to develop healthy ears.

Cultivate frequently to control weeds, but shallowly so as not to damage stalks or roots.

Corn is ready to harvest when silk becomes dry at the ends, ears feel full, and a thumbnail puncture produces a milky-white substance. The sap from under ripe corn will appear watery. Each stalk should produce one large ear of corn. Many varieties also develop a second, smaller ear. Generally, from the time the silk is visible to harvest is about 20 days.

Watch your crop closely after the first silks appear. This is the milk stage which lasts for only about a week. The best corn is always the freshest corn! Grill it, steam it, roast it, microwave it --- enjoy it!

Linda is an author of Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's of http://www.gardening-guides.com She writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

The Art Of Extracting Juices

Making juices may seem simple. There are a variety of devices used for making juices. The ideal juicer will make the maximum amount of liquid from a given quantity of plant material, leaving a quite dry residue behind which, incidentally, makes a first class material for composting organically grown fruits and vegetables.

An electric blender can make a juice-like liquid from soft raw materials and is quite good with raspberries and similar fruits although it is usually advisable to add a little water to the mixture before blending However, for nearly all sources of raw juices the most efficient machine is a purpose built juicing machine.

These represent a sizeable expenditure for the average family and it is often more economical to buy one where the basic motor unit can perform a number of different functions so that the whole is a useful culinary aid. For example, a model which is not only a continuous juicer but also shreds or slices for raw salads, blends and chops.

Every type has its own special merits and its particular disadvantages. Which you choose must depend on your individual circumstances, but an experienced health store owner is invariably a good and willing guide. But there are certain points that it is as well to be aware of in advance.

Any reasonable manufacturer will give a one year guarantee against faults in manufacture. The machine will be made of high quality plastics and chemically inert metals, such as stainless steel rather than the more reactive aluminum, in places where it is in contact with the juice.

The cheapest type and one that is usually very efficient consists of a basket with perforations into which the fresh materials are put through the feeding hole. There are cutters which divide the matter into fine particles. The basket whirls round expressing the juice through the holes by centrifugal force. After every pint or so of juice has been prepared the machine must be dismantled (always check to see if this is a simple or a tortuous task), the pulp has to be removed, the machine re-assembled and the process repeated. These are excellent value for the moderate user but very tiresome if you want many pints each day.

The next kind is the continuous machine in which the juice comes out of one aperture and the pulp from another. This is very convenient and some makers claim to have juiced two tons of apples without stopping. In these machines the design of the pulp outlet is very critical for especially with the softer fruits, there is a risk of clogging which if unnoticed leads to a table covered with leaking liquids and a very messy juicer. Do not be put off for the majority of makers have overcome such faults. Just make certain that you buy on the understood condition that continuous means more or less what it says.

The extraction rate is often a little lower that for other types but this is offset by the great convenience. It is important to remember to clean all juicing machines after use or else the rotting and caked-on residue will make a visit to the repairers a premature necessity.

The next class of machine is a hydraulic press which first shreds and then subjects the pulp to between 3,000 and 7,000lb (1375-3175kg) pressure leaving the plant matter almost bone dry. Such a machine is costly and often hard to obtain but probably the most efficient and certainly very desirable for institutional use. It is too large and awkward for normal juicing purposes.

Finally we must consider the non-electric or manual methods of juicing which have, after all, been the only means possible until recently Very good results are obtainable with a small scale wine press. The fruit or vegetables are chopped and put into a slatted, circular wooden basket a threaded post runs up the centre and a long lever forces a strong plate downwards onto the material forcing the juice out. A good model will last so well that you may leave it to your heirs.

A good juicer is an investment in health that is small compared to the great benefits you will derive from its regular use. Not only is it essential for therapeutic purposes but, when you are fit and well, fresh raw juices can be prepared into subtle and delicious cocktails of entrancing gastronomic delight. Who else but the host/hostess with a juicer can offer good health with a drink?

Kevin Pederson has been managing a number of natural home remedies websites which have information on all the common and serious illnesses and many benefits from the different juices and ways of extracting it.

Squash is a Big Hit in the Greenhouse - Over 500 Pounds of Squash in a Single Season

It started as a modest project to build a raised bed greenhouse for growing squash. You might say it was a necessity because of the dry and wind-swept climate we have here in Wyoming. It turned out to be an excellent investment in time and money, as it has paid us back in its first season with more than 500 pounds of vegetables. Let me tell you about the squash we raised in our homemade greenhouse.

The greenhouse was constructed using power poles, tin, ripstop poly sheeting, and chain link fencing top rail. I constructed a twin raised bed greenhouse that is a strong and able producer of both winter and summer squash. The beds are narrow and long, and covered with fabric mulch, and the whole thing is watered with a drip system.

The vegetables we planted were pitiful little seedlings with two or three leaves. We planted two each of six varieties of summer squash, and two each of six varieties of winter squash. Our summer squash consisted of Butterstick, Starship, Sunburst, Woods Bush Scallop, Gold Rush, and Magda.

Our winter squash consisted of Butternut, Thelma Sanders, Bush Delicata, Sweet Dumpling Delicata, Table Queen and Small Wonder. We put the summer squash on the south bed and the winter squash on the north bed. The winter squash were mostly a vine type of growth, whereas the summer squash were all bush varieties.

The growth of the squash was remarkable, and the care was easy. The tiny seedlings took a little while to get established, and then quickly put out more leaves. We pulled the few weeds that snuck out from under the fabric mulch to keep them from competing with the seedlings.

The summer squash started early with blossoms and setting fruit. Since it was still a bit cool outside, we hand pollinated with small water color paint brushes until the bumble bees took over. Once they took over, it was a haven for bumble bees, and they flew from blossom to blossom all covered in pollen during most of the day.

The squash were watered every couple days with the drip system. Once they reached a larger size and started to grow fruit, we watered each day for an hour or so. After they were in full production, we extended the watering times to make certain they were getting plenty of water to support all the fruit they were producing. They responded well and started to encroach on the walkway, eventually making it hard to walk the length of the center path. It was a jungle on the south side of the "squash house".

The winter squash were allowed to crawl and climb in any direction, and often had to be turned around to keep from piling up at the ends of the bed, or flowing over into the sunken walkway. Trellises were a welcomed feature for the long-vined winter squash. We hand pollinated them as well until the bumble bees took over. Later in the season, we bumped our heads on the fruit that hung down in the center of the walkway. It was a jungle on the north side of the "squash house" as well.

The harvest was a bit more than expected. Every 4 days during the mid-summer harvest, we collected 8 to 12 pounds of fruit, and that harvest continued for at least 2 and 1/2 months. On occasion we let the squash develop for another week, and then we harvested about 45 pounds on a single day. We estimate more than 300 pounds of squash was harvested for canning, freezing, fresh eating, and sharing with our friends and neighbors.

The winter squash had to wait for its "show" at the end of the season. More than 200 pounds lay on the fabric mulch, hung on the trellises, and dangled overhead on the joists of my homemade greenhouse. We are set for squash this winter, and we'll save money on groceries because we won't be buying much produce at all.

If you're interested in an abundance of food from a relatively small space, I suggest you consider your own "squash house". Come see how we were wowed by the miracle of seed, soil, water and sunlight.

Clair Schwan is an expert in frugal living, and has constructed three homemade greenhouses to help kiss goodbye to the high price of groceries. See his greenhouse gardens and other frugal living tips at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com