Common Houseplant Problems

House plants have problems just as your outdoor plants do. They can range from diseases and insects to over and under watering or over and under fertilizing. Knowing what cause the problem is the first step in curing it. With house plants if the base of the plant stem is soft and seems weak, then more than likely the cause is from over watering, simply allow your plant to dry completely out before watering again or re-potting with a good draining soil with a little sand mixed in will also improve your plants.

Leaf Drop "drooping leaves" are another common house plant problem commonly caused by an over exposure to cold or drafts, over fertilizing or to much sun. You should stop fertilizing for three to four weeks and move the plant to a window with a little less sun and check the rooms' temperature and for drafts also the cold from the window at night.

Yellow or Brown Spots means too much water or sun and the soil should be checked for moisture, if it's too wet let it dry out some before the next watering and then move to an area a little less sunny. If the leaves are turning brown then yellowing this may be from several causes, the most common is not enough or too much water or even over fertilization. A re-potting with fresh soil, and holding off on fertilizing for a month or so will generally do the trick, water only when the plant has become completely dry and avoiding too much sun,

Dry brittle leaves means that your home does not have enough humidity and your plants are not getting enough water. A good misting of the leaves and a good soaking of the plant itself is a quick fix for this. Soak the plant by watering it until the water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, misting can be done with a sprayer or simply wiping the leaves down with a cloth or sponge, this is also a good way to get some of the dust off the leaves, bringing their shine back.

Most house-plants are slow to grow, generally from too little light, water or fertilization. House plants however don't need a lot of fertilizer, when you do fertilize with a slow release fertilizer and extra light can be given by moving the plant to a sunnier location or adding a grow light above it for the extra light it needs.

Eudora DeWynter offers tips on Common Houseplant Problems on her blog at http://www.gardentoolguru.com.

Variations Among Species of Palm Trees

Palm trees are popular in gardens all over the world and are usually found in the tropics, coastal regions, deserts and generally warmer areas. Some species grow faster than other species, particularly due to the climate which affects the growth in most types of palm trees. Some palm trees need continually warmer weather while some can bear the colder climates. In some trees, the warmer weather results in faster growth and, in those trees, the trunk becomes taller more quickly. This is important to consider when choosing the appropriate plants for your garden, particularly if you want a tall line of trees in a shorter period of time.

There are several types of palm trees varying by commonality to growth rate. Queen Palms are the most common species of palm trees and, actually, do fairly well in the colder climates. Queen Palms need a lot of water and quality soil. They reach around twenty-five feet in a time span of seven to ten years, but they can reach a height of sixty feet. The King Palm is a faster growing tree and grows faster with full sun. It requires a rich and nutrient soil and plenty of water, but with good care these trees can reach twenty-five feet in ten years and have a maximum height potential of approximately forty feet. The King Palm is a good species choice if you desire a shade or canopy of trees.

Another choice in faster growing trees is the Majesty Palm, which reaches around ten feet in ten years and can reach thirty-five feet within a twenty year period of time. This palm needs soil rich in magnesium and, as expected, plenty of water though they do not do well near the ocean due to the abundance of salt in the air. The King Kong or Black Trunk Palms are also faster growing trees with the potential to reach eight feet tall. Unlike some other species, though, this tree grows in width before it grows in height and also grows large, horizontal leaves. It is one of the wider types as far as trunk diameter. Finally, the Royal Palms are moderately fast in growth, possibly reach twenty feet in ten years with quality care. This tree requires a nutrient rich soil, a lot of sun and plenty of water. Similar to the King Kong or Black Trunk species, the Royal Palms grow a wider trunk before growing tall. It does not grow well in colder weathers, specifically before twenty six degrees Fahrenheit.

As you see, the needs of palm trees vary by species. You must consider the needs of the different types before you plant it to be sure you can meet its requirements and allow it to grow to its full potential. Some do well in continually warmer weathers, while some can handle the occasional colder weather. Also, be sure to ask the nursery about the day length of each type of plant. Some trees need a lot of continual sun while others do better in partial sun. It is important to understand the heat and sun requirements for the tree you choose.

Being particularly interested in plants, Peter J. Wilson has been editing a large number of detailed papers on this particular subject. You might find out more about his abstracts on plants and palm trees at http://www.alicante-spain.com

How to Start a Worm Farm

Getting started on a worm farm is not that complicated, all you'll need is a love for recycling and a little bit of worm trivia so here's some worm trivia that could help motivate and inspire you with your new venture. How much do worms usually eat? Mature worms capable of eating up to three times their own body weight every day and for those who are just starting in the world of worms and what to know how to make the worms eat more and have a lot more productivity.

The answer is simple - shred, mash or blend food scraps since these will make the food more digestible and is very easily eaten by the worms. Also maintain worm bed temperature at around 23-25 degrees Celsius, since it is at these temperatures that worms feel their best, but don't feed your worms foods high in acid content as it will screw up their digestive system. The following are a few things you'll want avoid feeding your worms, manure, onions, citrus fruits or peelings, garlic, garden waste sprayed with insecticides, dairy products like milk and cheese or meat.

Watering the farm will enhance the production of the fertilizer but take care not to add too much water in the farm or the worms will die. Take note that food wastes are actually eighty percent water content which is released as the worms begin to break it down. So, if you happen to pour water over the system every couple to few weeks be sure to just add sufficient water to make sure that the bed remains damp and cool, and you will have a constant supply of this fertilizer.

You will not be able to harvest the worms since they'll regulate themselves within any space and the amount of food made available to them. Here are a few other questions that you might find yourself inquiring.

Why is it common for worms to gather on the lid of the farm when it is raining? It's a perfectly normal response for these worms to act in this manner during the rainy season to avoid getting drowned.to avoid drowning. Just take the farm containers to an area where it won't be exposed to too much rain and drop the worms to the farm bedding.

Why don't the worms just relocate to the upper level of the tray? If could be the result of you putting in new food before the worms have completed the earlier batch. Worms have an instinct to stay with leftover food and won't seek out to find a new food source until it consumes what was left previously. Therefore, before adding new trays, halt the feeding of the worms for at least five days so you can be sure the old food has been eaten and make sure that the levels in the tray needs to be placed high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.

Do worms have the ability endure high temperatures? worms are able to stand a temperature ranging between ten to thirty degrees Celsius. so if it gets hotter than they can stand, place the farm in a nice shady cool place where it can regulate the moisture and humidity of the boxes. In colder temps make sure to cover the box with old clothes, blankets and wool shavings to sustain the warm temperature. It's also good to feed the worms at least a quarter more than you're supposed to since more food by the worms gives way for more heat to be generated within their bodies. So use these ideas and you can be on your way to create a great worm farm.

P Abbey owns and operates http://www.wormcompostingdiy.com - Worm Composting Troubleshooting

Planting Avocado Seed - How to Grow the Perfect Avocado

Once you know how easy it is to go about planting avocado seed, you'll start growing your own indoor avocado plant that will bring you years of enjoyment, and some nice fruit, too! Just follow these simple steps, and soon, you'll see your avocado seed begin to sprout and turn into a beautiful plant.

Preparing the Seed

First, cut open the avocado and remove the seed, being careful not to damage or cut the seed (it's usually called a pit, because it's pretty big). Rinse the pit under cold water to remove any fruit or residue that might be left on it, and then dry with a soft cloth or paper towel. You're just about ready to start planting avocado seed, now!

About midway through the roundest part of the pit (from top to bottom, with the pointy end on top), push three toothpicks around the middle of the avocado pit. Push them in enough so they are secure, and will hold the pit in place.

Fill a glass or jar with water, and suspend the pit on the edge of the jar, leaving about half the pit submerged in the water. The large end of the pit should be the end in the water.

What to do Next

Next in planting avocado seed is letting the pit do its thing! Place the jar in a sunny location where it won't spill or get knocked over, and just make sure to keep the water level filled up so the pit is always in water.

In about three weeks, you should see roots forming in the water, and the top of the pit beginning to split, where a green sprout will emerge. After the sprout gets about six-inches tall or so, and there are more than one set of leaves, pinch off the very top set of leaves. This will help the avocado branch out and become more like a tree. After another few weeks, you should have more roots and more leaves on the new tree.

Planting Time

You can plant your avocado outside if you live in a warm area where it won't freeze in the winter. However, if you live in a colder area, your avocado won't survive the winter, so you need to transplant it into a pot as a houseplant. When you plant it in a pot, use a good quality potting soil, and don't bury the top of the pit, leave about half of it sticking out of the ground, just make sure the roots are totally covered up. Water frequently, but don't keep the soil too moist, because your pit can rot if the soil is too wet.

Place the pot in a sunny location, it really needs sun to grow. Keep the soil moist but not too wet. Look for yellow leaves, if your avocado leaves turn yellow, it's getting too much water, if they wilt or turn brown, it's not getting enough. Every time the plant grows another half a foot or so, pinch out the very top leaves to keep it branching out and healthy.

In the wild, your tree could grow 20 to 40 feet tall, but in the house, if you prune it, you can keep it much smaller and more manageable. Sometimes, even planting avocado seed can result in trees that bear fruit indoors, but planting two or more trees increases your chances, since they can pollinate each other.

Ian Pennington is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about planting avocado seeds, please visit Best Gardening Ideas for current articles and discussions.

How to Grow Sweet Corn

Purchased corn, whether on the cob or in a can cant compare for taste! Sweet corn is easy to grow in the flower and fruit gardening guides home garden with just a little know how and a few corn facts.

Corn needs warm soil temperatures (50 - 65 Fahrenheit) to germinate.
Warm temperatures cause sugars in corn to turn into starches and results in loss of sweetness and creamy texture. Sugars also begin converting to starches immediately after harvest.

Sweet corn is divided into three types according to its sweetness: (SU) normal sugary or standard sweet corn, (SE) sugary enhanced, and (Sh2) super sweet.

Standard Sweet Corn (SU)

Normal sugary is the traditional variety of sweet corn. Less sweet than the other types, it will tolerate low temperatures at planting time.

Sugary Enhanced (SE)

(SE) corn is the preferred choice of many of todays flower and fruit gardening guides home gardeners. Sugary enhanced is sweeter than standard corn and retains sweetness longer than either of the other types. While not as sweet as super sweet, it has a creamier texture and tolerates lower soil temperatures.

Super Sweet

Super sweet (Sh2) kernels differ from the other two types of sweet corn by their shriveled, small appearance. Although the sweetest of the three, (Sh2) needs a soil temperature of at least 65 F to germinate. Another drawback of (Sh2) is that its texture is drier and its sugars more rapidly convert to starch after harvest.

Sow your seed in a very rich garden soil and give it access to ample moisture. Because corn is a high-nitrogen feeder, even the best soils may need to the addition of aged manure or nutrient rich compost to produce an optimum crop.

Plant corn in two or more rows for pollination to be successful. Plant kernels in hills of three, spaced about a foot a part with rows three feet apart. Plant kernels from one to 1 inches deep or inch deep for super sweet types. After germination, preserve the most robust plant in each hill, discarding any other seedlings that have sprouted.

Water rows well after planting, especially in the case of super sweet kernels, which need to absorb more water to germinate. Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season. Corn needs moisture in order to form tassels and silk and to develop healthy ears.

Cultivate frequently to control weeds, but shallowly so as not to damage stalks or roots.

Corn is ready to harvest when silk becomes dry at the ends, ears feel full, and a thumbnail puncture produces a milky-white substance. The sap from under ripe corn will appear watery. Each stalk should produce one large ear of corn. Many varieties also develop a second, smaller ear. Generally, from the time the silk is visible to harvest is about 20 days.

Watch your crop closely after the first silks appear. This is the milk stage which lasts for only about a week. The best corn is always the freshest corn! Grill it, steam it, roast it, microwave it --- enjoy it!

Linda is an author of Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto's of http://www.gardening-guides.com She writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

The Art Of Extracting Juices

Making juices may seem simple. There are a variety of devices used for making juices. The ideal juicer will make the maximum amount of liquid from a given quantity of plant material, leaving a quite dry residue behind which, incidentally, makes a first class material for composting organically grown fruits and vegetables.

An electric blender can make a juice-like liquid from soft raw materials and is quite good with raspberries and similar fruits although it is usually advisable to add a little water to the mixture before blending However, for nearly all sources of raw juices the most efficient machine is a purpose built juicing machine.

These represent a sizeable expenditure for the average family and it is often more economical to buy one where the basic motor unit can perform a number of different functions so that the whole is a useful culinary aid. For example, a model which is not only a continuous juicer but also shreds or slices for raw salads, blends and chops.

Every type has its own special merits and its particular disadvantages. Which you choose must depend on your individual circumstances, but an experienced health store owner is invariably a good and willing guide. But there are certain points that it is as well to be aware of in advance.

Any reasonable manufacturer will give a one year guarantee against faults in manufacture. The machine will be made of high quality plastics and chemically inert metals, such as stainless steel rather than the more reactive aluminum, in places where it is in contact with the juice.

The cheapest type and one that is usually very efficient consists of a basket with perforations into which the fresh materials are put through the feeding hole. There are cutters which divide the matter into fine particles. The basket whirls round expressing the juice through the holes by centrifugal force. After every pint or so of juice has been prepared the machine must be dismantled (always check to see if this is a simple or a tortuous task), the pulp has to be removed, the machine re-assembled and the process repeated. These are excellent value for the moderate user but very tiresome if you want many pints each day.

The next kind is the continuous machine in which the juice comes out of one aperture and the pulp from another. This is very convenient and some makers claim to have juiced two tons of apples without stopping. In these machines the design of the pulp outlet is very critical for especially with the softer fruits, there is a risk of clogging which if unnoticed leads to a table covered with leaking liquids and a very messy juicer. Do not be put off for the majority of makers have overcome such faults. Just make certain that you buy on the understood condition that continuous means more or less what it says.

The extraction rate is often a little lower that for other types but this is offset by the great convenience. It is important to remember to clean all juicing machines after use or else the rotting and caked-on residue will make a visit to the repairers a premature necessity.

The next class of machine is a hydraulic press which first shreds and then subjects the pulp to between 3,000 and 7,000lb (1375-3175kg) pressure leaving the plant matter almost bone dry. Such a machine is costly and often hard to obtain but probably the most efficient and certainly very desirable for institutional use. It is too large and awkward for normal juicing purposes.

Finally we must consider the non-electric or manual methods of juicing which have, after all, been the only means possible until recently Very good results are obtainable with a small scale wine press. The fruit or vegetables are chopped and put into a slatted, circular wooden basket a threaded post runs up the centre and a long lever forces a strong plate downwards onto the material forcing the juice out. A good model will last so well that you may leave it to your heirs.

A good juicer is an investment in health that is small compared to the great benefits you will derive from its regular use. Not only is it essential for therapeutic purposes but, when you are fit and well, fresh raw juices can be prepared into subtle and delicious cocktails of entrancing gastronomic delight. Who else but the host/hostess with a juicer can offer good health with a drink?

Kevin Pederson has been managing a number of natural home remedies websites which have information on all the common and serious illnesses and many benefits from the different juices and ways of extracting it.

Squash is a Big Hit in the Greenhouse - Over 500 Pounds of Squash in a Single Season

It started as a modest project to build a raised bed greenhouse for growing squash. You might say it was a necessity because of the dry and wind-swept climate we have here in Wyoming. It turned out to be an excellent investment in time and money, as it has paid us back in its first season with more than 500 pounds of vegetables. Let me tell you about the squash we raised in our homemade greenhouse.

The greenhouse was constructed using power poles, tin, ripstop poly sheeting, and chain link fencing top rail. I constructed a twin raised bed greenhouse that is a strong and able producer of both winter and summer squash. The beds are narrow and long, and covered with fabric mulch, and the whole thing is watered with a drip system.

The vegetables we planted were pitiful little seedlings with two or three leaves. We planted two each of six varieties of summer squash, and two each of six varieties of winter squash. Our summer squash consisted of Butterstick, Starship, Sunburst, Woods Bush Scallop, Gold Rush, and Magda.

Our winter squash consisted of Butternut, Thelma Sanders, Bush Delicata, Sweet Dumpling Delicata, Table Queen and Small Wonder. We put the summer squash on the south bed and the winter squash on the north bed. The winter squash were mostly a vine type of growth, whereas the summer squash were all bush varieties.

The growth of the squash was remarkable, and the care was easy. The tiny seedlings took a little while to get established, and then quickly put out more leaves. We pulled the few weeds that snuck out from under the fabric mulch to keep them from competing with the seedlings.

The summer squash started early with blossoms and setting fruit. Since it was still a bit cool outside, we hand pollinated with small water color paint brushes until the bumble bees took over. Once they took over, it was a haven for bumble bees, and they flew from blossom to blossom all covered in pollen during most of the day.

The squash were watered every couple days with the drip system. Once they reached a larger size and started to grow fruit, we watered each day for an hour or so. After they were in full production, we extended the watering times to make certain they were getting plenty of water to support all the fruit they were producing. They responded well and started to encroach on the walkway, eventually making it hard to walk the length of the center path. It was a jungle on the south side of the "squash house".

The winter squash were allowed to crawl and climb in any direction, and often had to be turned around to keep from piling up at the ends of the bed, or flowing over into the sunken walkway. Trellises were a welcomed feature for the long-vined winter squash. We hand pollinated them as well until the bumble bees took over. Later in the season, we bumped our heads on the fruit that hung down in the center of the walkway. It was a jungle on the north side of the "squash house" as well.

The harvest was a bit more than expected. Every 4 days during the mid-summer harvest, we collected 8 to 12 pounds of fruit, and that harvest continued for at least 2 and 1/2 months. On occasion we let the squash develop for another week, and then we harvested about 45 pounds on a single day. We estimate more than 300 pounds of squash was harvested for canning, freezing, fresh eating, and sharing with our friends and neighbors.

The winter squash had to wait for its "show" at the end of the season. More than 200 pounds lay on the fabric mulch, hung on the trellises, and dangled overhead on the joists of my homemade greenhouse. We are set for squash this winter, and we'll save money on groceries because we won't be buying much produce at all.

If you're interested in an abundance of food from a relatively small space, I suggest you consider your own "squash house". Come see how we were wowed by the miracle of seed, soil, water and sunlight.

Clair Schwan is an expert in frugal living, and has constructed three homemade greenhouses to help kiss goodbye to the high price of groceries. See his greenhouse gardens and other frugal living tips at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com